So I finally did it. With the weather forecast promising three straight 80s-and-fog-clear coastal days, I headed to King Range National Conservation Area to descend north to south the 25.6-mile stretch of the Lost Coast trail from Mattole to Shelter Cove. Here’s the log.
Friday, Oct 10, 2008
3:15 am: Left San Francisco to drive north on H101. Deserted Golden Gate bridge has a surreal quality to it. I am doing good time all along the way, though encountering multiple slower men-at-work areas along the freeway.
7:50 am: After stopping in Petrolia to confirm directions, I arrive at Black Sand Beach trailhead parking lot. Air is cold and dry. At 8:00 am sharp Sherri, my shuttle ride, pulls up in the lot, exactly as planned. The party of three + dog I am sharing the ride with joins us soon after. They had spent the night in a nearby camp.
8:30 am: Quick stop at the NCA Ranger Station for maps and bear canisters. I ask the ranger on duty if he thinks I can make it to Randall Creek before the afternoon high tide renders access along the trail impassable. He is skeptical, but suggests to get going quick if I want to try.
10:00 am: Mattole trailhead. I pay and thank Sherri, waive goodbye to my shuttle partners and get going. Determined to keep a good pace. Glad the gusty wind is blowing from northwest, at my back.
11:50 am: Punta Gorda Lighthouse. 3 miles into day one, I reach the abandoned lighthouse, stop for a dry meal and head down to the beach to explore elaborate driftwood shelters.
1:20 pm: Bluffs, sand and high grass give way to boulders as the beach passage narrows considerably. I can sense the tide rising as the day goes by. Negotiating the narrowest stretches of the trail, I am now stepping in and out of the water and watching for 10-foot waves, keeping a good pace to avoid being squeezed back out by the tide.
3:30 pm: Randall Creek suddenly opens up on my left as I clear a narrow beach passage. A stream emerges from the vegetation at the bottom of the creek and expands in a beach pond just above the high tide line. I setup camp on the bluff just above the it.
6:30 pm: Randall Creek. Just a memorable sunset.
Saturday, Oct 11, 2008
6:40 am: I wake up before sunrise. Hot coffee, milk and granola, while I savour the light flooding the bluffs, turning the ocean to blue and giving it its morning sparkle.
10:00 am: Spanish Flat. The broad grassy headlands expand under the bright morning sun.
12:40 pm: Big Creek. At about 14 miles from the start, the beautiful, wide creek opens up covered in dense vegetation. Sand dunes, gravel and boulders slow me down as I start to feel the strain in my heels and knees.
1:45 pm: Big Flat. As I reach the widest flattest section of the landscape along the trail, I reach the northernmost tip of a unpaved landing strip. The isolated house of the small airport residents is the largest of a handful of residences scattered along the route. Big Flat is busy. I meet other backpacking parties as well as surfers that have setup camp there and are enjoying the long, steady breaks. I also meet the ranger I had talked to at the ranger station the day before. He is surprised I made there ahead of the tide and that I am backpacking alone.
3:20 pm: Shipman Creek. After a tiring mile-long stretch of boulder hopping, I reach the beautiful campsites at Shipman Creek, where I decide to pitch tent. I am now 6 miles away from Shelter Cove.
8:30 pm: Shipman Creek. While I am tending a beach fire, two hikers with their dogs arrive at the camp. The dogs end up chasing a skunk into my site which in turns causes the skunk to spray all over my tent and gear. After attempting to get used to the stench in the tent, I decide to take my bag out and sleep under the rising moon.
11:30 pm: Shipman Creek. It is getting colder and I wake up. The moon has now set and I open my eyes to the most incredible, saturated, star-studded black sky I have ever seen. Truly awesome.
Sunday, Oct 12, 2008
8:50 am: Shipman Creek. Sore feet and heels and a light headed make me feel happy I only have little more than 6 miles to reach the destination.
10:30 am: Gitchell Creek. It is a beautifully warm and bright day. I meet multiple parties of surfers on their way north, lugging their boards and gears along the beach. Feet hurt and hiking in sand is slow and exhausting.
12:30 pm: Black Sand Beach. Gated by big, tall rocks the beach widens up, stretching for over a mile down to the trail head. As I get to the end of the trail I take a moment to enjoy the breeze, the sun, the sand and to soak my feet in the freezing Pacific Ocean water.
Until the next one.
Great trip log, almost exactly three years later. I am considering a solo trip myself, trying to decide if I want to go for it! Thanks for this post, Cheers!
If the weather window is good, it is well worth it. Good luck!